January 2008 : part 3, weaving

Take it Further Challenge : January 2008, part 3

Part 1 : http://plantes-couleurs.over-blog.net/pages/January_2008__part_I-164592.html
Part 2: http://plantes-couleurs.over-blog.net/pages/January_2008__part_2-176132.html


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This is a detail of the ink work I did for the leaf design: you can see all the brush marks, ink spots etc.

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The design has been broken down into three technical colours: each colour will be woven with a different pattern: pocket weave, satin, plain, etc. But before it can be woven, the design has to be turned into the proper format: number of warps/cm / repeat and weft / cm / repeat.

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This is what it looks like on the computer screen. Before the computer age, all these designs were painted onto a grided page.  So it would really take a long time to create a new design, but nowadays, some designs can be done within a few hours by one single person...
I didn't actually do all the work cleaning the colours: I asked a collegue who works on a specialised programm to do it for me. It took about ten minutes of his time, where it would have taken me a week to do it on my unadapted software...
And now for weaving:

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This is what I call "note de lisage": it is the weaving plan where each warp and weft receive a different pattern. Of course the computer doesn't do it alone: you have to think about what you want for each colour, then you fill in the spaces. 
I want this fabric to be quite light and airy, but with a good drape once finished: the cells (col 2) will be pocket weave, the thicker veins (col 0) will be a satin weave of both warps and both wefts, the thiner veins (col1) are an inversed pocket weave... 

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And this is what the design looks like when it goes into the loom's computer: each square is one warp crossing one weft; white is for the weft over the warp , red is warp over weft ... looks quite complicated, but the computer calculates all that fortunately. Can you imagine when it was done by hand and head alone? 

I sent my design to the mill, to be woven on a silk warp...
I have received no sample yet, but as soon as it comes back from the mill, I will post the photos!

Victoria